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The first guitar Paul brought
in was an acoustic guitar built by Jimmy Foster.
We are intimately familiar with Jimmy's guitars, having owned two of them at
one time and having worked on a great deal of them over the years
Jimmy is a single builder who has done fairly well for himself. He
builds beautiful instruments and his instruments sound uniquely like a
Foster. A distinction rarely achieved by most small builders.
OK onto Paul's guitar.
Paul liked the instrument very much - he thought that the instrument could
play better than it did. The guitar was somewhat difficult to play and
there was quite a bit of fret rattle. A re-fret was in order.
Here is the guitar before we began. Paul said
it was difficult to play.
I'll say - the action is about twice what I'd
like to see for one of Jimmy's instruments.
Here is another problem I had - The nut sat
very poorly in the nut slot. Lots of gaps.
Let's take a close look at the bass side -
just as bad. This can't be very good for tone. We'll take care of
that.
As I stated earlier a re-fret was in order.
the frets were not seated well and there was some warping in the fretboard.
I skipped the usual pictures of fret removal as there are so many other
places on this site that you can see that.
After removing the frets we found a great
deal of glue in the fret slots. I have never been a big fan of using
glue in fret slots - I don't think it's really necessary.
Not that there isn't a place for it in the
pantheon of fretwork. I've been known for using glue to help seat a
stubborn fret - but as a rule I don't like the idea of gluing in frets.
I have said it time and time again but it is
so important that it is worth repeating. the key to great fretwork
starts with fingerboard preparation. Start with a perfect fretting surface
and you'll be that much closer to the perfect re-fret.
After leveling the board we are ready to take
care of those fret slots. As I stated before they were fill of glue
...
... but now that we took off some material from the fingerboard face we have
to make sure that the slots are deep enough to
accept the wire.
We'll start by digging out the glue from the
slots. Here I am using a great little tool which is perfect for the job.
It's basically just a hook and very sharp and very thin but very strong.
I use it like a miniature back hoe. clearing all of the fret slots is
a bit tedious but well worth the effort. We have an attachment to our
dremel tool that will do this job in a fraction of the time - but to be
honest I don't think it does as good a job - besides I am not sure I'm real
comfortable with using a tool that spins up to 30,000 rpm in or even near
fret slots.
Here is another great tool. A miniature
saw with two parts. Just big enough to saw inside the binding for
cleaning out and deepening fret slots
The saw cuts on the pull stroke on one of the
cutting surfaces ...
and cuts on the push stroke on the other.
Perfect for controll when cutting and trying to preserve the binding on the
neck.
Now that the slots are cut, we will check the
depth of the slots to ensure that the slots will accept our wire without
bottoming out in the slot
We'll check each and every slot - we actually
check while we are cutting each slot. But it always makes sense to check
again - to be sure.
All the slots are now perfect - clear of
glue, and ready for frets.
Before we put the frets in we'll polish up
the board.
I never liked the look of dull ebony.
Here is a look at the cleaned out slots.
First we'll check the width of the slots
before we choose the appropriate fret wire.
Fret wire is available with differing sizes
of tang (the part that digs into the board). We'll want to match that
to the fret slot width
For ths job I elected to use "Jaws", a superb
fret installation tool designed by Dan at Stew Mac.
It is a hand held fret press. Depending
on the guitar I'll choose this fret installation method.
I can't use "jaws" over the fingerboard
extension so I'll still hammer them in up here.
All in all I still prefer hammering frets in
above all other methods of fret installation.
I always put frets in every other fret. This
gives me a chance to read the neck and see how the neck is reacting under
fret compression.
At the fretting bench, we have this neat
little fret bay. Not only does it hold the cut frets for two guitars,
but all of our tools for the installation.
Now we'll cut the fret ends with a specially
ground flush cutter.
Here is the other reason we fret every other
- as we travel up the neck - the cutter wouldn't fit between the frets if we
did them all at once.
Here is the guitar with the neck taped up
ready I skipped the pics of the fret leveling process - there are lots of
places to see that at this site already.
We tape up all the fingerboards that have
fretwork done to them. I am sickened whenever I see sideways gouges in
a fingerboard because some so called guitar tech doesn't bother to protect
the fingerboard.
We see a lot of boards come in with little
gouges running along the side of the frets. As if there are some
places that haven't heard of masking tape.
Sorry - I am ranting here - back to Paul's
guitar. The frets are all crowned and we are ready to proceed.
Here is a good look at the nicely crowned
frets still awaiting the final polish.
OK - here is a really good look.
A quick look down the fingerboard - just for
fun.
Did you enjoy that - good let's
get back to work !
Remember that poorly fitting nut? We'll take
care of that. A good fitting nut is crucial for good tone and sustain.
Here is the roughly shaped nut cut from a
blank. After we make sure it fits well and is nicely seated we'll cut
the string slots.
We use specially made files for cutting
string slots. Each file matches the string gauges used on a particular
guitar. Not triangle files here - I hate the way that looks.
All the string slots are cut - I dirtied up
the nut with a pencil so you could see the slots better.
Here is the nut cleaned up, polished up and
ready for strings - lest you think we'd give Paul a dirty nut.
Now we'll do the final polish on the frets.
We also made a new saddle - I'll show you the finished product in a bit.
All strung up and ready to be set up.
Here is the New Saddle I mentioned.
Hard to see in this picture but we
compensated it to get the intonation just right
Our final action is much more desirable.
now that the frets aren't a problem It won't buzz with action this low.
Here is our well seated nut - with yet again
very nice low action at the first fret. This guitar should play really well
now.
Here is another shot of the nut. And
Jimmy's beautiful inlay.
Well that's it for
this one. I am glad to say Paul was quite pleased with the way this
one came out. We should have another one to show you soon.